From some time, my great Philips Wake-up Light start suffering from resetting clock time after short power loss. I remember that some time ago, when unplugged in power loss occurred after power back clock time was continued. It clear indicate problem with backup battery. I decide to open and investigate.
Inside i found not a single use backup battery but capacitor. Over time it’s lost capacity.
I do not have spare so decided to order new one from bay.
Video of re-celling process
Pictures.
This is newer plastic one (i do not recommend for re-celling)
I tear down HYT BL1719 to check if possible re-cell.
Here You can see deference between REAL and REPLICA connector U-229 (it’s not exactly U-229, because U-229 is female) on TRI PRC 152 radio.
This soldering is not a proper way – terminal should be crimped, but i don’t have crimping tool for that size so i use this solder pot as work around!.
2000W inverter in ideal condition at 12V should take about 2000W/12V = 166A but to be safe, have low voltage drop and make sure it will work at 10V (2000W/10V = 200A) + efficiency i decide to use 35mm2 copper cable.
The cheapest cable I found was a “welding negative ground cable” it was much more cheaper than cable dedicated to car audio amplifiers 🙂
Just make sure to mark red “positive end” 🙂
Here’s simple repair of soldering station 939 i’v got not working for couple years. I got myself from aliexpress for 2USD! whole pcb 🙂
Just need to solder, connector in place, and calibrate:)
Working perfect:)
In my opinion it’s better to use hotair because You won’t touch ec5 body so You won’t left any solder left on sides – if You left then You will have trouble fitting conductor element into plastic case and need to use lot of force!!
Here pictures of that operation:
I’v got myself a TRI PRC 152 replica and i’m trying to put real military issued u-283/u connector, but i have to figure out what kind od PCB connector is used between TRI board and that connector.
The answer is: PicoBlade Molex Mini Micro JST 5pin 1.25mm
and could be bought without any problems on RC stores.
Here are some pictures.
From couple of months my hotair station start loosing suction power (and hotair airflow) and yesterday it stop working what was very dangerous because hotair heating element got red hot.
I started repair from checking “pump” module, but after checking outtake hose i found good airflow. – most expensive part is working fine.
I found clog in airflow-meter showed on pictures caused by “flux”.
I fill airflow-meter with isopropyl alcohol overnight and next day all flux was dissolved, just rinse with more isopropyl alcohol and station working like charm 🙂
Very simple but useful fix, recommend check Your station and clean before it clog.
