Some random UPS APC simple repair job – no DC charging – failed capacitor, after replace working perfect.

They are very old photo and i don’t remember what king of model it was…

Here are pictures of weirdest repair job i had…

I had not working FDD midi drive, after opening i found EPROM not properly fitted inside socket…

They are hard to pull out and enclosure was sealed so nobody tampered it…

I can’t imagine how much “G Force”  should be apply to lift that ic from socked… of course enclosure don’t show any sights of shock / drop.

After pressing it down, everything start working correctly…

Finally i got replacement backup capacitor.

After soldering new cap and testing problem was solved,  clock can be unplugged and after powering back time is still counting.

From some time, my great Philips Wake-up Light start suffering from resetting clock time after short power loss.  I remember that some time ago, when unplugged in power loss occurred after power back clock time was continued. It clear indicate problem with backup battery. I decide to open and investigate.

Inside i found not a single use backup battery but capacitor. Over time it’s lost capacity.

I do not have spare so decided to order new one from bay.

Continuation

This soldering is not a proper way – terminal should be crimped, but i don’t have crimping tool for that size so i use this solder pot as work around!.

2000W inverter in ideal condition at 12V should take about 2000W/12V = 166A but to be safe, have low voltage drop and make sure it will work at 10V (2000W/10V = 200A)  + efficiency i decide to use 35mm2 copper cable.

The cheapest cable I found was a “welding negative ground cable” it was much more cheaper than cable dedicated to car audio amplifiers 🙂

Just make sure to mark red “positive end” 🙂

In my opinion it’s better to use hotair because You won’t touch ec5 body so You won’t left any solder left on sides – if You left then You will have trouble fitting conductor element into plastic case and need to use lot of force!!

1. Strip wire
2. Apply little bit of flux then add solder onto wire
3. using hotair heat ec5 pin and fill solder into hole (about half of hole)
4. fit wire while heating, wait couple of seconds then remove heat source
5. cold down and apply heat shrink tube
6. fit pin into plastic case using flat screwdriver
7. BEFORE STRIPPING ANOTHER WIRE MAKE SURE FIRST ONE IS FITTED INSIDE PLASTIC (or insulated) TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL SHORT!!

Here pictures of that operation:

I’v got myself a TRI PRC 152 replica and i’m trying to put real military issued u-283/u connector, but i have to figure out what kind od PCB connector is used between TRI board and that connector.

The answer is: PicoBlade Molex Mini Micro JST 5pin 1.25mm

and could be bought without any problems on RC stores.

Here are some pictures.

From couple of months my hotair station start loosing suction power (and hotair airflow) and yesterday it stop working what was very dangerous because hotair heating element got red hot.

I started repair from checking “pump” module, but after checking outtake hose i found good airflow.  – most expensive part is working fine.

I found clog in airflow-meter showed on pictures caused by “flux”.

I fill airflow-meter with isopropyl alcohol overnight and next day all flux was dissolved, just rinse with more isopropyl alcohol and station working like charm 🙂

Very simple but useful fix, recommend check Your station and clean before it clog.